Object description
This elaborate ring is made of coral and gold. Coral has been carved into the head of a man wearing a North African headdress. The folds of fabric have been intricately worked and the facial features have been accurately rendered.
The hoop of the ring is highly elaborate. We can observe twisted gold wire as well as a technique called granulation. This is decoration with small metal beads. Floral and leaf motifs have ben applied to the band. Gold and silver have been mixed to give a greenish tinge for the leaves. Copper has been mixed to give a red tone as well.
Whilst this object is clearly a ring, would you believe that it wasn’t always in this form? It is thought that the coral head was originally part of the top of a seal or stick from the 17th century. The gold band is likely from the 19th century- at some point, the two were combined.
Coral ring/Mineral,Coral, Metal,Gold/17th century AD (head); 19th century (mount),19th Century/The Hunt Collection/PD
Coral ring/Mineral,Coral, Metal,Gold/17th century AD (head); 19th century (mount),19th Century/The Hunt Collection/PD
Coral ring/Mineral,Coral, Metal,Gold/17th century AD (head); 19th century (mount),19th Century/The Hunt Collection/PD
Coral- Trade and its use in jewellery
Coral became extremely popular in jewellery in the 19th century. The centre for coral jewellery production at that time was Naples. Mediterranean fishers would bring their haul of coral to Italy for workers to craft into jewellery. The material was harvested off the coasts of Tunisia, Algeria, Sicily, Corsica and the Italian region of Calabria. Coral was often used in cameos and mosaics which travellers collected from Italy as a souvenir and brought home.
However, coral was worn before the 19th century. It was mostly worn for its amuletic qualities, especially as a protection against the evil eye. Interestingly, it was used as part of teething sticks by wealthy families for children to cut their first teeth on. It was also one of the precious materials of Buddhism. This led to a significant increase in trade between Europe and Asia. In addition, it became popular as a means of bartering in Asia.
Unfortunately, coral was also used in the slave trade. From approximately the 15th century, Europeans paid coral in exchange for slaves. This was especially the case in African countries such as Angola and Benin.
Coral teething stick
Sources
Navakas Currie, M. Coral Lives: Literature, Labour, and the Making of America. Huntington Frontiers. 2023. https://huntington.org/frontiers/coral-lives-literature-labor-and-making-america
Raveaux, O. Mediterranean red coral: A European merchandise of the first globalisation. Digital Encyclopedia of European History. 2020. https://ehne.fr/en/encyclopedia/themes/material-civilization/transnational-consumption-and-circulations/mediterranean-red-coral-a-european-merchandise-first-globalization.
The Hunt Museum Essential Guide. Scala Publishers. 2002.
